Tag Archives: climbing

Climbing in Krabi

Climbing in Krabi is always a perfect choice. This place is one of the best climbing area in the world. The views are breathtaking, the routes are beautiful and the beach is amazing.

However it is not easy climb there, the average level of the routes are 6b. Most of the climbing area are well maintained, but always double check the condition. Some routes would need new slangs.

How to get there ?

Plane to Krabi airport (direct from Singapore with Air asia and scoot). Then bus toward the pier and long tail boat to Railay or Tonsai. Most of the time your hotel in Tonsai or Railay can arrange the transfer.

Where to stay ?

Railay or Tonsai. Railay will be more touristic and high standing compare to Tonsai which is the backpacking site. Both are nice (I have done both).

In Tonsai : Tonsaibay Resort
In Railay : Sand Sea ResortRailay west beach

Either way you will go to the other side to climb. Tonsai and Railay offers equivalent numbers of routes ! You can easily transfer from one area to the other via a small path (count around 30 min from extreme right of tonsai to extrem left of Railay.

Where to climb ? 

So many area in Krabi ! You would need to stay a whole week maybe more to do all the routes ! However, some area are pretty nice if you have only 1 weekend to spend.

  • 123 wall –> for beginners and warm up.
  • PHRA NANG BEACH –> some easy routes but most of them are difficult, go during sunset the view is stunning !
  • Thaiwand wall –> one of the most beautiful routes over there, the view is just wonderful
  • HUMANALITY WALL –> mutli pitch of 6a / 6b . a must to do !
  • MELTING WALL –> access with a canoe or boat because you might be blocked due to the tight. Routes are pretty nice and the view too.

Batu Caves, Malaysia

13 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur, this area is very convenient for short weekend climbing. You can take a flight from Singapore on friday night and climb saturday and sunday morning and come back in the evening to singapore.

How to get there from Kuala Lumpur ? The best way is to rent a car at the airport and drive there. The traffic is not that bad.

Where to sleep ? we rented air B&B near to the Batu Cave but still in KL so short drive but also close to the restaurants and bar for the after climbing.

What is the climbing level ? I would say you have a bit of everything for everyone ! Batu caves have many walls (5 in total) and each of them have around 20 routes and more. It starts from 5c till 7++

Multi pitch ? Yes but it is definitely not the area to go if you want to do multi pitch. There is one good and safe in the main wall. After you have some other in the other walls but they are not that well maitain and they are difficult to find.

Additionnal points ? yes there are sanitaries where you can have a shower (cold water but convenient) and only 1$ ! Useful if you are taking a flight right after.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/malaysia/batu-caves

 

Diablo Canyon

We drove 8 hours to get to New Mexico from Dallas, near Santa Fe. There is a nice huge canyon where you can climb. Single pitch, muli-pitch everything is there. From 5c to 7c+, you will find something.

We rented an Air BnB close to Santa Fe for the weekend. The rock is Basalt so it’s not sharp and quite nice to climb on.

No particular season is best, but it can be very cold during winter. We went there in March and it was freezing cold once the sun disappeared. Take a warm jacket.

 Also, do not forget to bring and wear an helmet because rocks are falling !

Topo : mountain project Diablo Canyon

Reimers Ranch

Close to Austin, Reimers Ranch is a nice spot to go climbing. We did it in a Day trip from Dallas. There are all kind of level and nice river to go to when the climbing day is finished.

To enter the park you need to pay 10$/vehicle.

For the topo : mountainproject Reimers

There is no particular season to go there depending on how you like hot or cold climbing ! We went in February and it was warm enough to enjoy climbing.

Wanna climb in Arkansas ?

Where? Horseshoe canyon : Horseshoe canyon ranch website

Distance? 397 miles : 70 HC, Jasper, AR 72641

Price? 5$/day of sleeping and 5$/day of climbing

Horseshoe canyon 5
Approach trail.

I am a big fan of climbing so I’ve looked for somewhere I could go climbing from Dallas. Not that much choice but you can go in Austin or in Arkansas. I think they are the two closest spot where you can have fun routes.

With my climbing group, we went up to Arkansas, in horseshoe canyon in early October, I went back in late November for a second weekend of climbing. The temperatures were still okay but cooler during evenings and night (32/34° F – 0/2° C).

Beautiful background, nice area to camp and to climb.

You can find everything you need in the camp, toilet and water, shower with hot water and a small store where you can buy few climbing things.

The area to climb is important over 300 routes and provide many different level of climbing from beginners to expert.

Horseshoe canyon 3  Horseshoe canyon 2

Horseshoe canyon 1  Horseshoe canyon 4